We did not realise how quickly time had passed until recently; it has already been a full year since we moved to Jeju Island. We arrived here last February, just before the Lunar New Year. That means this year was our second Lunar New Year on the island, known in Hangul as Seollal.
Last year, we spent the holiday quietly. As most places were crowded, we decided to keep things simple. We stayed home and only went out to try our luck at seeing some bottlenose dolphins along the coast. We were lucky enough to spot two dolphins, and considering it was our first time, it felt especially memorable.
This year, however, was different. Our family travelled from Seoul to visit us for three days. They arrived shortly after the Seollal week, landing in Jeju in the late afternoon. By the time they collected their rental car and settled in, it was already evening, leaving little time for sightseeing.
So we agreed to keep the first evening simple, have dinner, pick up some snacks, and call it an early night so we could start the next day on time. Seeing familiar faces after living far away from family felt surprisingly emotional. Being in a different place, away from the people you know, can sometimes feel isolating.
Even though both Ki and I have become more introverted as we’ve grown older (lol), we still found ourselves unexpectedly overwhelmed when we met them.
After helping them bring their luggage to their hotel rooms, we headed out for dinner.
After having a nice dinner, we bought some beer and snacks as planned and returned to the hotel, where we spent the night playing board games with our nieces. We left the hotel a little after 11 p.m. Fortunately, it was quite close to our home, so the journey back was short. That was how our first day ended.
The next morning, we woke up early, got ready quickly, and headed straight back to their hotel to begin the day’s itinerary. Since the famous yellow canola flowers were in full bloom, we decided to start our trip near Sanbangsan Mountain.
Our first stop was at Sanbanggulsa Temple, then we headed on to the nearby canola fields. We spent quite a long time there taking photographs. The weather could not have been more perfect, bright blue skies, clear air, and fields of yellow flowers stretching across the landscape.
After that, we continued to Yongmeori Coast. Unfortunately, the tide was still high when we arrived, and the entrance was temporarily closed. We were told to return at 1 p.m., so we decided to pass the time at a nearby café before coming back later.
Located near Sanbangsan Mountain, Yongmeori Coast was also a highlight of the day. Its dramatic rock formations are unlike anything you would normally see elsewhere in Korea. The scenery feels raw and powerful, shaped over centuries by wind and waves.
Thankfully, the wind was calm that afternoon, and the weather already carried the soft feeling of early spring. Even better, it was approaching golden hour, and the cliffs were glowing with warm light. After visiting Yongmeori Coast, we decided to head straight to Noeul Coastal Road to try our luck once again and see if we could spot some dolphins.
As soon as we arrived at the viewing spot, we saw them: five dolphins swimming across the sea. It felt like a very lucky day for all of us. After the successful dolphin sighting, we drove to Songaksan Mountain. By the time we arrived, it was already dark.
Since the trail there is relatively safe, we used our phone flashlights and began walking up the path. However, we did not climb very far. Ki and I were fine, but the rest of the group were scared of the dark, especially the children.
To make matters worse, a horse suddenly appeared on the trail and seemed somewhat panicked. With children in our group, it did not feel like a good idea to continue. So we quickly descended. And, to be honest, everyone was already very hungry.
We drove straight to a well-known black pork restaurant in Seogwipo and finally enjoyed a proper meal. After dinner, we returned to the hotel, opened some snacks and beer, and spent the evening talking and laughing together.
Ki and I eventually headed home very late, well past midnight, despite knowing we had to wake up early the next morning for the final day of our itinerary. The next morning we did manage to wake up early again. The mood was still cheerful, but fragile. Any wrong conversation or action could have ruined anyone’s mood, probably because everyone was tired. Or so it seemed.
Our first activity that day was a boat ride on the Soesokkak Estuary in Seogwipo. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, only three tickets remained for the first departure. As we did not have time to wait for the next trip, we decided to let the children take them instead.
While they enjoyed the ride, the rest of us made our way up to the viewing deck to follow their progress and take photos as they waved from the boat. The children seemed to love the experience, which made the decision worthwhile.
Afterwards, we drove on to Seopjikoji. The wind there was remarkably strong that day, although the sky remained clear and bright.
One of the planned activities was for the children to try horse riding, and, as it happened, there was a small riding area right at Seopjikoji.
Unfortunately, this turned out to be the most disappointing moment of the trip. We later realised that the horse ride was, in essence, a scam. The price was relatively high, comparable to that of legitimate riding parks on the island, yet the ride itself lasted barely a minute.
We understand that everyone is trying to make a living and support their families. However, there is nothing wrong with doing so honestly and properly. If people are paying a fair price, they should receive a fair service in return.
We would rather not go into full detail about our experience, but if asked whether we would recommend horse riding there, the answer would be a definite no. It was a disappointing experience, marked by poor service and questionable management.
So, as a small suggestion, if you ever visit Seopjikoji, we would recommend avoiding the horse rides there, as Jeju offers many excellent riding parks elsewhere.
Some of the better options can be found near Seongsan Ilchulbong and around Songaksan, where a number of horse-riding cafés operate. A little research beforehand can go a long way towards avoiding experiences like ours.
Despite that unpleasant moment, we lingered in the area, as the scenery was so beautiful it was difficult to stop taking photographs. By then, it was almost 3 p.m., and we still had one final stop before heading to the airport.
Their flight was scheduled for 8 p.m., so we aimed to arrive at the airport by 6 p.m. to avoid any last-minute stress. Our final stop was Dongmun Market, where we picked up a few snacks and had an early dinner.
We kept the meal brief, making sure to leave enough time for them to return their rental car. Thankfully, we arrived at the airport with time to spare. The final moments were filled with conversation, laughter, and, eventually, a few emotional farewells.
As they walked through the boarding gate, several of us found ourselves tearing up once again. Ki and I were joking and laughing afterwards, wondering what all the tears were for, considering we live in the same country. Still, goodbyes always seem to carry a touch of emotion.
We waited at the airport until everyone had boarded safely before making our way home. As we had not brought the car that day, we took the bus back instead, something we had not done in quite some time.
While living in Jeju, we tend to rely on the car to get around. Yet that bus journey somehow felt like a more authentic way of travelling, the kind where you depend on public transport rather than the comfort of your own or a rented car.
Our Seollal celebration turned out to be meaningful, lively, and filled with fond memories. Above all, we felt deeply grateful that our family had travelled all the way to Jeju to spend time with us. It was, without doubt, a truly special few days.
